Sailing the Mekong in the Green Season – My AmaWaterways River Cruise Through Vietnam & Cambodia
The Mekong River is one of the world’s most fascinating waterways, winding through Vietnam and Cambodia. Joining an AmaWaterways Mekong River Cruise is the perfect way to explore this incredible region in comfort and style. From vibrant cities and floating markets to serene sanctuaries and moving cultural experiences, this journey is unlike any other.
We travelled in low season, which meant everything was beautifully green and lush. Rainfall was minimal – usually just an hour in the mid-afternoon – which actually brought some relief from the humidity. If you’re considering when to travel, don’t overlook this quieter time of year; it offered excellent value and a more relaxed pace.
🇻🇳 Starting in Vietnam
Our adventure began in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), where AmaWaterways guests stay at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza. The hotel is exceptional – fantastic service, colonial charm, and a rooftop pool with views across the city. There’s even an AmaWaterways desk in the lobby to make your arrival seamless, with your daily cruise programme already waiting for you.
The energy of Ho Chi Minh is infectious – scooters zipping through the streets, bustling markets, and lively bars and restaurants. A great introduction to Vietnam before embarking on the cruise.
🚢 Life Onboard AmaDara
The ship for this itinerary is the AmaDara, a beautifully styled vessel with rich wood interiors, airy spaces, and a spacious sundeck to take in the views.
which give you both a full floor-to-ceiling window, and a separate outside balcony.
Before this trip I hadn’t realised how valuable that layout would be, but in this climate it makes perfect sense.
On many river ships a ‘French balcony’ simply means the sliding door opens and your room becomes the balcony; here, the outdoor space is separate, so you can relax outside while the cabin stays cool and air-conditioned. Trust me, you will need the air-conditioning as it can be humid!
We stayed in cabin 111, one of the entry-level categories, and it was fantastic value — the same square footage as the higher grades, and being close to the water made the Mekong feel even more immersive.
What’s Included Onboard
AmaDara is full board, with breakfast, lunch and dinner all included. Between mealtimes there’s always a snacks area with cookies and cakes, so you’re never far from a little treat.
At lunchtime you can choose a full service meal in the main dining room, or opt for the more casual “light lunch” option served on the sun deck — perfect if you don’t fancy a full sit-down meal in the middle of the day.
Tea and coffee are available all day, every day. Wine is included with meals, and unlike European cruises, so are soft drinks, beer and a selection of spirits. Cocktails are available for a small supplement, as are premium branded spirits. It would have been rude of me not to sample the inclusions 😉 and honestly, the drinks included are more than enough unless you’re very particular about top-shelf labels.
Entertainment Onboard
Evenings are varied, with everything from fun quizzes and a crew talent show, to live local entertainment brought on board from the regions we visited. One highlight was a local children’s dance group who joined us in Phnom Penh — a special performance that gave us a real insight into Cambodian culture.
The Crew
The crew onboard were phenomenal. From the bar and restaurant teams through to housekeeping, every single member of staff made the journey so special. Their smiles, warmth, and the way they addressed you by first name after only meeting once really stood out.
Special mention to Narong, Det, Leak & Hai behind the bar, Makara, Jenny & Lors in the restaurant, and John — the piano man — who kept us entertained every evening with live music and requests.
Our Cruise Manager was AK from Vietnam, and he was brilliant too. Friendly, organised, and always on hand to make sure everything ran smoothly.
🌿 Excursions in Vietnam
From Cai Be to Sa Dec, each stop revealed something new about life along the Mekong. In Cai Be, we visited Kiet’s House, an elegant 19th-century home, followed by workshops where rice paper and local sweets are still made by hand.
In Sa Dec, we explored a colourful Cao Dai Temple before walking through the bustling street markets. These markets are a real eye-opener – not just for the variety of produce, but for the hard work of the locals who earn very little. Amongst the exotic fruit, herbs, and spices, you’ll also find live frogs, ducks, eels, and even snakes being sold. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but it’s a truly authentic insight into daily life here.
Vietnamese Dong (VND) is used in Vietnam, while US Dollars are widely accepted in Cambodia alongside Cambodian Riel (KHR). We found the easiest approach was to carry a small mix of local cash and a few low-denomination US dollars, using cards mainly in hotels, larger restaurants and shops. Markets, tuk tuks and small vendors usually prefer cash — keep smaller notes handy.
🦢 Tra Su Forest Sanctuary
One of the highlights in Vietnam was the Tra Su Forest Sanctuary. We drove past paddy fields before boarding small rowing boats that took us through tranquil waterways lined with cajuput trees. The sanctuary is home to over 70 species of birds and countless water flowers, including lotus and water lilies. A climb up 120 steps led us to a panoramic viewpoint over the forest and wetlands – an incredible way to see the scale of the sanctuary.
🇰🇭 Crossing into Cambodia
After a smooth overnight sailing, we woke up in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital. Our first excursion was to the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, with its floor made of over 5,000 silver tiles. The palace complex is spectacular – golden roofs, intricate carvings, and colourful murals.
The Central Market was another highlight, a French-built Art Deco landmark buzzing with life. It’s the perfect spot to experience the sights and sounds of local Cambodia.
🕊️ An Afternoon of Reflection: S21 & The Killing Fields
This afternoon’s excursion in Phnom Penh took us to two of the most sobering and important sites in Cambodia’s recent history — the S21 Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek.
We began at S21, a former secondary school that was turned into a detention and interrogation centre under the Khmer Rouge. Walking through the classrooms-turned-cells and seeing the evidence from those years was deeply moving. Our local guide shared his own story — he lost both of his parents during this period — which brought the history into sharp focus. It’s not an easy visit, but it is an essential one.
While there, we met Bou Meng, one of only seven known survivors of S21 (with just two remaining today). Now 87, he spoke about losing his wife and two children, and how his skill as an artist — producing an almost photographic portrait of Pol Pot — ultimately saved his life. Hearing his story in person is something I’ll never forget.
From S21 we travelled to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, where thousands of people — including prisoners from S21 — lost their lives. The site contains mass graves, memorials and personal tributes left by visitors. The most haunting place is the “Killing Tree,” once used to murder children, now covered in bracelets left in remembrance. Walking here is quiet and reflective; it’s a chance to pay your respects to the victims.
Visiting these sites is not easy, but important. They are a powerful reminder of Cambodia’s resilience and of the need to remember — and learn from — the past. I feel incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit, to learn more about the country’s history, and to pay my respects to those who were lost.
🙏 Cultural Experiences
Some of the most memorable moments came from smaller, more personal encounters. In Oudong, Cambodia’s former capital, we visited a Buddhist monastery for a traditional blessing ceremony. Later, we hiked the 409 steps to the top of Oudong Mountain, rewarded with sweeping views across the countryside (and a sudden tropical downpour!).
Another moving experience was visiting a local school supported by AmaWaterways. Meeting the children, hearing about their dreams for the future, and seeing the conditions they learn in was emotional but uplifting. They sang songs, practised English, and welcomed us with the biggest smiles. A reminder of the difference these visits and donations make.
🌅 A Grand Finale in Siem Reap
Disembarking in Kampong Cham, we transferred by coach to Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra, the post-cruise hotel used by AmaWaterways. As we were strapped for time on this trip, we chose to arrange our own one-night stay nearby rather than join the full AmaWaterways extension — but seeing the welcome at Sofitel made us wish we had! Guests were greeted by a full team rolling out the red carpet, complete with live instruments and music as they entered the lobby. We later bumped into some friends who stayed there, and they couldn’t stop praising the hotel.
Instead, we headed straight out for our own evening adventure, taking a tuk tuk to Angkor Wat for sunset. The experience was unforgettable — seeing the iconic temple turn golden as the sun dipped behind its towers was a moment we’ll never forget. If you’re travelling on AmaWaterways’ Siem Reap extension, you’ll enjoy Angkor Wat at sunrise, along with a full guided tour of the temple complex.
Siem Reap itself left a huge impression on me, and I think it was actually my favourite city of the entire journey. The atmosphere is friendly, clean, and welcoming, with a colonial French influence that adds real charm. In the evening, the riverside night market and Pub Street were buzzing with life — full of colour, food, and energy. It’s only a shame we had time for just one night, but one thing’s for certain: we’ll absolutely be back.
⚓ Final Thoughts
Looking back on this trip, I honestly think AmaWaterways have got it spot on with their Mekong river cruises. The ship, the crew, the food and drink inclusions – everything came together to make the journey feel relaxed, comfortable, and really good value for what’s included.
And if you’re wondering about the time of year – don’t shy away from travelling in the so-called “green season”. I’m so glad we did. The scenery was so much lusher and greener, there were noticeably fewer crowds at the big sights, and the short bursts of afternoon rain actually cooled things down and made it more pleasant. For me, it added to the atmosphere rather than taking away from it.
All in all, cruising the Mekong with AmaWaterways was more than just a holiday – it was a chance to really connect with Vietnam and Cambodia, their history, culture, and daily life, all while enjoying the comforts of a top-class river cruise. It’s a journey I’ll never forget, and one I’d recommend in a heartbeat.